You might remember we printed a Phyllo shell with success a week ago. The material we used for this shell however was not meant to be translucid, but actually phosphorescent. This meant our shell was not as translucid as it could be, and it’s phosphorescence was also problematic since we want a high contrast between the phyllo when lit with inner LEDs, and when not lit by any light source.
We therefore ordered a more suitable 3D filament. This time the result for the shell printed with this new filament was not as successful:
The deformation on the first picture was probably caused by the temperature of the nozzle (from which the filament goes out) being too low, which caused the printed raft below the shell to detach itself from the platform.
The holes might also be linked to the nozzle temperature, but they were also probably caused by the layer thickness which was set higher than usual by mistake, and the absence of support structures inside the phyllo.
I started printing a new phyllo with better settings, but it will take 26 hours to print so patience will be key…
As explained in our previous post about 3D printing, we plan to attach the shell to the rotating platform by gluing filled petals with a threaded insert in them to the shell. I glued one of these filled petals to our new shell with Loctite epoxy glue:
The shell was deformed so the two shapes didn’t match perfectly, but even in these conditions the filled petal was attached pretty strongly to the shell: pulling on it started breaking the shell first.
The threaded inserts were even more successful as we were not able to detach the screw from the petal even by pulling it as hard as we could with two persons holding each side.
With these new tests, it seems our shell should be able to withstand a rotation of 30 rotation per seconds !