I changed the design a little bit in order to ease the printing and make the structure more robust: I removed the openings / holes on the sides and made the whole structure thicker. I also used the Ultimaker 2 printer of the fablab instead of the zortrax since the zortrax are somewhat broken right now. (hopefully it’s not because of all our printings)
I also printed a piece with the same shape and dimensions as our processor PCBs, and it fits perfectly in the structure.… Read more
One has holes in it, one was printed in the wrong material (phosphorescent ), one got too small after our acetone smoothing test, one got warped due to wrong temperature settings… and the last one seems just fine, but might potentially explode in a thousand pieces when we’ll try to spin it at 30 RPS 🙂
We would like to thank the Zortrax M200 who spent 120 hours in total printing these, hopefully it will get some rest one day (not today though, we still need to print a bunch of supports )
I talked in this post about the 3D supports I’m making in order to easily fit the 62 petal PCBs and 12 processor PCBs in the Phyllo. Since then, I’ve made quite a few changes and progress on the 3D design:
The cylindric pieces are here in order to have thickness around the holes in which I will put the threaded inserts.
I tried to print the processor PCB support, but it failed because of wrong settings, here is the result of the second print:
It’s not perfect yet, there is one spot where the structure got shifted, but it’s still a very promising result.… Read more
In my last 3D printing post, I showed you a sculpture printed with the new translucid filament we bought, and a first test gluing a filled petal to the shell.
The last shell had some major flaws due to wrong print settings, but we fixed it and printed another one:
As you can see this one has support structure on the outside, this type of support is very easy to remove. The shell also has some support structure inside it, as with our first shell. It might be possible to remove these structures with acetone steam : acetone steam can be used to smooth a 3D model printed with ABS filament, and since the structure is made up of loose and messy filaments steam acetone might remove it, or at least smooth it.… Read more
You might remember we printed a Phyllo shell with success a week ago. The material we used for this shell however was not meant to be translucid, but actually phosphorescent. This meant our shell was not as translucid as it could be, and it’s phosphorescence was also problematic since we want a high contrast between the phyllo when lit with inner LEDs, and when not lit by any light source.
We therefore ordered a more suitable 3D filament. This time the result for the shell printed with this new filament was not as successful:
The deformation on the first picture was probably caused by the temperature of the nozzle (from which the filament goes out) being too low, which caused the printed raft below the shell to detach itself from the platform.… Read more
Yesterday I set out to test the LEDs we received : ASMG-PT00-00001 and LE RTDUW S2WP. The first is a powerful RGB LED, while the second is an even more powerful RGBW LED. They need to be quite powerful because in order to avoid a blurry image due to the motor rotation the duration of the flashes must very brief, and since the LEDs are flashed only once every 137.5 degrees of rotation that means they are off most of the time.
The goal here is to test under conditions similar to those the LEDs will actually be used in : once every 1/30 seconds, they will be turned on for 100µs using high frequency PWM modulation for the colors, and then switched off again.… Read more